The awesome technology of K-beauty

Biostimulators, salmon sperm, powdered surgical threads, shoulder-contouring Botox, and more.

“Youth is beauty.” I remember my mom saying this to me as a teenager. But let me first put it in context. At 16, I would apply makeup and try to dress like an adult, which exasperated my mom. So, she would always tell me that I didn’t need all that, and just being my youthful self was already beautiful.

Now I understand what she meant. During my mom’s time, applying a good face cream was their generation’s only solution to care for their skin and to keep young. Of course, there were those who opted for plastic surgery like face lifts, but it wasn’t so common.

Fast forward to today. Beauty is big business. There are seemingly unlimited options in beauty products, and cosmetic procedures are commonplace. In the beauty industry, K-beauty is at its peak, but beyond products found on shelves, there are Korean dermatological procedures that are next level.

I had a chat about these amazing procedures with board-certified dermatologist and member of the Philippine Dermatological society Dr. Raissa Francisco Pasion, to learn about these much-touted Korean innovations in the field of beauty.

“These procedures are popular because flawless skin is a universal concern, and the demand for treatments that address this is increasing,” Dr. Pasion said. “The popularity of K-pop and K-dramas in our country has also exposed Filipinos to Korean celebrities with clear and luminous skin. Thus, there is a bigger market now for patients seeking treatments similar to what these Korean celebrities are doing on their skin.”

PDO Fillers

I asked Dr. Pasion what the most in-demand Korean procedures are here in the Philippines. She enumerates, “First is the PDO (Polydioxanone) filler (brand name is Ultracol), an innovative treatment that belongs to a class  of injectables called “biostimulators.” These are injected into the skin like a filler but they do not cause an increase in volume. They stimulate the body’s own natural production of collagen in the areas they are injected, leading to subtle yet noticeable improvements in facial contour, firmness and elasticity.”

Just so you know, Polydioxanone has been used as a reliable suture material in medical procedures for more than 30 years. Simply put, they are surgical threads. More than 1,400 PDO mono threads are processed into micro particles combined with carboxymethylcellulose, a highly tolerable and medically safe carrier substance.

Do you notice how people with regular fillers end up having “pillow face,” looking all puffy instead of youthful? Biostimulators like Ultracol help achieve a youthful, full face without being too obvious. Dr. Pasion explains further, “Ultracol consists of a powder form of PDO (Polydioxanone), a key ingredient in threads that are used for lifting. This powdered PDO is mixed with sterile water and injected into the skin as a watery solution. This PDO injectable has been shown to be an effective collagen stimulator in the skin. This procedure typically involves three sessions, with results lasting up to a year. The whole face as well as the undereye area and nasolabial folds can be treated. This treatment is a good option for patients seeking to improve sagging and loss in facial volume with natural-looking results.” Personally, I have tried Ultracol and though it will take a couple more months to reach its full effect, I already see a youthful firmness in my face. I seriously get comments that I look “fresh.”

Exosomes

Another K-beauty discovery is Exosome therapy, a novel regenerative treatment that has gained popularity in the past couple of years. But what is it? Dr. Pasion gives a background: “Exosomes are tiny vesicles produced by cells in the body, and skin cells have their own kinds of exosomes. These vesicles act as messengers and contain various lipids, amino acids, peptides, growth factors and genetic material. Exosomes enhance cell-to-cell communication or signaling between cells, allowing them to function better. They have regenerative, immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory effects when applied to the skin. Exosomes can be extracted from human stem cells contained in fat, the umbilical cord and amniotic fluid. There are also plant-derived exosomes.” 

At present,  exosomes are being used to help with hair loss, skin rejuvenation, wound healing and decreasing inflammation and pigmentation. Exosomes can be applied topically or injected into the skin and scalp. In the near future, exosomes will be an added ingredient in skincare products for regeneration and healing.

Polynucelotides

Recently, I read an article that revealed that the secret skincare procedure that makes Hollywood superstar Jennifer Aniston’s skin glow contains salmon sperm. Well, it’s not exactly that, but close. Pasion clarifies that  “Polynucleotides are injectable gel-like products that are derived from the DNA fragments of wild salmon. One of the brands of polynucleotides in the Philippines is called Rejuran. These injections are designed to provide cellular remodeling and stimulates collagen production in the skin. Polynucleotides help to improve the appearance of scars, fine wrinkles and skin laxity. They can also improve skin texture, tighten pores, brighten skin and enhance wound healing. Significant improvement can also be seen on depressed acne scars.  Polynucleotides can be injected over the entire face, undereye area or on scars. A series of four or more injections is usually required for optimal results.” 

Your skin will be hydrated, smooth, and tight due to the collagen stimulation.  These products are designed to make one look “not done,” and that is the genius of it. I think of them as modern potions of youth. As Pasion says, “These new procedures such as biostimulators like Ultracol, the polynucleotide injections and exosomes improve skin quality, texture and tone while still allowing patients to look very natural. Doctors and their patients are moving away from the overfilled and unnatural look.”

So it’s goodbye, pillow face, I say. As to its safety, “All these products are Korean FDA-approved. Rejuran, Ultracol, and ASCE SRLV exosomes are approved by the Philippine FDA.”

Botox

Good old Botox has been around for years, and many uses have been discovered aside from softening wrinkles on the face. Dr. Pasion enumerates the various ways it is used in Korea.

“Koreans have pioneered the use and different applications of botulinum toxin. Aside from the usual areas in the face for wrinkle reduction, it has been used for jawline slimming by targeting the large masseter or chewing muscle to soften the appearance of a wide or square jaw. 

“Another popular Korean treatment is ‘mesobotox,’ or ‘microtox.’ This uses lower doses of diluted toxin injected as micro droplets in the superficial layers of the skin to improve skin texture, pores and fine lines leading to glowing and smooth skin. 

“Botulinum toxin can also be used on muscles outside the face such as the trapezius muscle (traptox) to help relieve chronic neck pain and slightly improve neck and shoulder contouring. It has also been used by some practitioners to help contour the upper arms and calves. 

A well-known side effect of botulinum toxin is a reduction in sweating over areas where it is injected. Thus, its use in the underarms, palms and soles is a well-known treatment for excessive sweating, also known as hyperhidrosis.”

All of these are already being performed by dermatologists in the Philippines. Of course, just because something is new and popular, you don’t have to join the bandwagon. “There shouldn’t be a one-size-fits-all approach for patients who wish to have these procedures done,” she says. “It is all dependent on the proper selection of treatments that will address their specific needs and concerns.”  The goal of these procedures is to address aging, provide skin enhancement, promote a youthful appearance, and to look fresh. However, you must remember that natural is best — even if replicated.