An elevated new spin on Japanese-Peruvian food

Nikkei Group president Carlo Lorenzana is no slouch.  The restaurateur, who made a name for himself with the first Nikkei on Rada Street in Makati, introduced Japanese-Peruvian cuisine to the Philippine market, and made it glamorous with beautifully designed modern spaces, trending cocktails, and lounge music that make each Nikkei an ideal place to hang and chill.

The formula has been so successful that it’s spawned spinoffs: Nikkei Nama is more about the beverages; Nikkei Robata focuses on food grilled the Japanese way; and now Den in Forbestown, BGC, is Nikkei at its most premium — elevated Japanese-Peruvian cuisine served with the finest sakes, beers, whiskies, wines, spirits and cocktails in a stunning space that merges industrial brick with warmly lit wood and striking art commissioned by Lorenzana himself.

“There are so many great places to eat in Lima,” notes Carlo, who would rather discover new restaurants in Peru’s capital city than go to Machu Picchu, for example.

You can eat and drink the results of his extensive travels at Den by Nikkei, which specializes in steak (Wagyu and Tomahawk rib-eye), sushi and izakaya, though it’s a seafood lover’s dream as well, with ingredients flown in from Japan.

Case in point: Carretillero, nigiri topped by a slice of salmon that’s so fresh and firm to the bite that it has an almost meaty heartiness, with a kick of spice from uchucuta, a traditional Peruvian spicy sauce made with Rocoto chilies.

Next came Spicy Tuna Tartare, a fruity, creamy ceviche with pickled cucumbers and Japanese onions on a bed of black tanuki, the crispy breadcrumbs used to batter tempura.

Flights of sake

To go with our food Scott ordered a Kopi Old Fashioned (Darkness 8 Years whisky with Mancino Kopi vermouth, Luxardo Espresso liqueur, sugar syrup and JM Cacao Bitters), while I had a Shibuya Gimlet (house sake with Citadelle, lime juice, sugar syrup, and JM Fleur d’Atoumo bitters), and our daughter Elle had a Strawberry Basil Lemonade.

A special feature of Den’s its Sake Sampler, a flight of three sakes featured every quarter that you can sample along with your food before choosing the one you like best.

First was Masumi Shiro Junmai Ginjo from Nagano prefecture in Japan, a gently sweet sake with savory umami and fruity notes, including apples and banana.

Next was Yamagata Masamune Inazo from Yamagata prefecture, which features a more palpable banana scent and flavor and a crisp finish.

Lastly we sampled Hamafukutsuru Daiginjo from Japan’s Hyogo prefecture, which has added distilled alcohol to its naturally fermented rice. It’s light but strong, with an elegant aroma and smooth, crisp finish.

These sakes went well with Den’s Thai Maki, a sushi roll that played on the textures of its crunchy fried prawns and the creaminess of its lightly torched Amai soy, Batayaki parmesan and eel sauces.

For me, a must-try is the Razor Clams Batayaki. Batayaki means “butter-fried” in Japanese, a similar technique to that used in Korean barbecue. Stunningly presented on a mini grill, the clams’ natural sweetness is brought out by herbs and the batayaki sauce.

Since Den showcases its steak, including prime-cut Wagyu beef and Tomahawk rib-eye, Scott had to sample their Kare Raisu, a succulent plate of soft, tender Wagyu cheek atop a bed of squash pureé and chalaquita salsa, batayaki rice and edamame beans, with crisp potato slivers to scoop up the mash.

Fusion flavors

Den’s executive culinary team is composed of chef Richie Buenaventura and Japanese chef Kazumasa Yonemoto, who’s had 40 years of experience working in places like Tsukiji in Japan and New York restaurants.

Jorge Joseph, who’s in charge of beverage development and PR communications for the Nikkei Group, tells us that a team of Japanese-Peruvian chefs was consulted in putting together Den’s menu.  From the 27 dishes that they tasted, they edited it down to what’s currently on the menu.

Another favorite of mine was the Nikkei Yakiudon — thick, chewy noodles coated in Rocoto uchucuta, uni paste and chalaquita, or Peruvian salsa.  Kind of like a Japanese-Peruvian pancit, this was full of umami and so comforting — especially on a rainy day — to a noodle lover like me.

We ended with a dish meant to be shared family-style, as all of Den’s dishes are: Kai Meshi, creamy Peruvian rice served in a clay pot topped with prawns, mussels, and squid.

By now we had definitely gotten a handle on Nikkei cuisine and its appetizing fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. I was also savoring the setting we were in, which Carlo created along with design manager Lalen Nievera.  Inspired by the sake bars and breweries of Japan, Lorenzana was so hands-on with the interiors that he also directed artist Rai Cruz on the paintings of Japanese geishas he wanted for the high-ceilinged space. (The 70-seat restaurant has a private function room on the second level that seats six to eight.)  The result is striking, modern, and not a little sexy, just like Nikkei itself.

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Den by Nikkei is located at Parklane Forbestown Road, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig, open Sunday to Thursday from 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. and Friday to Saturday from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m.